Quinta do Vesuvio - Vintage Port 2017 (750ml)

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Producer	Quinta do Vesuvio
Country	Portugal
Region	Douro
Varietal	Red Blend
Vintage	2017
Sku	8843

This offers of a lovely mix of raspberry, black currant, plum and fig pate de fruit notes, which stretch slowly over a ramrod straight graphite spine. Bramble, anise and apple wood details are tucked in neatly on the finish, giving this a compact feel for now, but everything is in place for a long, steady maturation in the cellar. Shows a pleasant, dry edge to the finish. Best from 2035 through 2055.

The 2017 Tinto (Quinta do Vesúvio), the Estate red, is a 56/41 blend of Touriga Franca and Touriga Nacional with a dollop of Tinta Amarela, all aged for 16 months in French oak (80% new). It comes in at 14.5% alcohol. A Big Boy this year, this shows off the typical fruit of this great estate. Sexier but less refined than the Chryseia (reviewed under Prats & Symington), it has fine concentration. Those are simply relative terms, though, as both do everything very well. Although relatively less elegant, this is by no means jammy or even close to clumsy. It is also beautifully constructed. In fact, I was impressed with its balance and refinement. It always retains finesse and focus. The next day, the fruit was more expressive. It still finished with firmness, but it was much more accessible. This is a beautiful Estate Tinto, maybe the best yet. It should age well. It should also steadily improve in the cellar, and it does require some cellaring, maybe more than indicated to actually show everything it has.